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Why has my boiler got heating but no hot water (or vice versa)?

DDavid · Founder, Datum
3 min read · Reviewed for accuracy before publishing

When one works and the other doesn't, the fault is usually in the part that decides where the heat goes — not the boiler's ability to make heat. On a combi, heating-but-no-hot-water (or hot-water-but-no-heating) most often means a stuck diverter valve, or a failed flow sensor that isn't telling the boiler you've opened a tap. On a system or heat-only boiler with a cylinder, no hot water can be the cylinder's immersion, a motorised valve, or the programmer. It's rarely a whole-new-boiler problem — but it does need an engineer to pin down which component.

On a combi boiler

A combi diverts its heat between your radiators and your taps. A diverter valve that sticks toward heating leaves you with warm rooms and cold taps; a flow sensor that's failed means the boiler never realises you've turned a tap on. Both are known, quotable component jobs — not a reason to replace a sound boiler.

With a hot-water cylinder

If you've a cylinder, no hot water can be a motorised (zone) valve that's stopped opening, a programmer or thermostat fault, or the immersion heater. The heating side working tells us the boiler itself is firing — so we look at the controls and valves that route hot water to the cylinder.

What we check first

We confirm the boiler is making heat (it is, if one side works), then test the diverter, sensors and valves in order — cheapest and most likely first. You get the fixed price for the actual fault, not a guess, and we'll always tell you honestly if a repeat-offender component means a replacement is the better spend.

Book a hot-water diagnosis

D
David · Founder, Datum

David founded Datum after years on the tools across heating and plumbing. He writes the boiler and cost guides from what actually happens on real installs.

Related questions

Is a stuck diverter valve expensive to fix?

It's a mid-range component job on most combis — more than a seal, far less than a new boiler. We quote it fixed once we've confirmed that's the cause rather than a cheaper flow sensor.

Why do I get hot water for a few seconds then it goes cold?

Classic diverter or flow-sensor behaviour on a combi — the boiler starts to divert to the tap then loses the signal. It's a book-it job; it won't fix itself and tends to get more stubborn.

Could it be my thermostat?

If you've a cylinder and separate controls, yes — a failed cylinder thermostat or programmer channel can leave you with heating but no hot water. It's one of the things we check, and one of the cheaper outcomes.

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